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Is 2012 the Year of the Pastry?

Ben Lauzier

July 3, 2012


You’ve likely braved the long lines at Tartine Bakery to get some of their famed croissants, morning buns, or bread pudding. If you thought it would always take over 30 minutes to score an artisanal pastry in San Francisco, don’t worry, because delicious help has arrived.

With the opening of Craftsman & Wolves in the Mission (on Valencia between 18th and 19th) and the news that B. Patisserie is moving to a permanent location in Pacific Heights (on California at Divisadero), we’re at the beginning of a full-blown pastry craze.

Craftsman and Wolves dessert

The Devil Inside, from Craftsman & Wolves

Craftsman & Wolves

Craftsman & Wolves is the brainchild of William Werner, the former pastry chef at Quince and the Tell Tale Preserve Company. After years of planning, he opened his sleek, new store in a former auto repair shop.

We sampled the blueberry brown butter muffins, which were loaded with ripe blueberries and topped with a light streusel. We also tried the savory financier, with zucchini, olive oil, and pistachios.

When we showed up at 11:30am on a Saturday morning, Craftsman was already sold out of its two show-stoppers: the Rebel Within and the Devil Inside.

  • The Rebel Within is a savory muffin with sausage, herbs, cheese, plus a runny, sous vide egg in the center.
  • The Devil Inside may need to be updated for California’s brand new foie gras ban. That’s because it’s a dense chocolate cake filled with a chocolate toffee ganache and then filled with a piece of foie gras. The word on the street is that it’s amazingly decadent and delicious.

B. Patisserie

Later this year, you’ll also be able to sample Belinda Leong‘s French pastries at B. Patisserie‘s new location on California Street. For the past year, she has operated a pop-up at the Ferry Building and at high-end coffee shops. Now, she’s almost ready for a permanent location.

Chef Leong was the one to introduce San Francisco to the Kouign Amann and the Kugeloph. The Kouign Amann (pronounced “queen a-mon”) is a luxurious, flaky pastry with a soft interior and a crisp exterior that’s similar to a creme brûlée shell. Just writing about it is making us crave another! Kugeloph is made from a soft, yeast dough, with dried fruit, nuts, and cherry brandy. Both of her signature pastries are the perfect complement to a strong cup of coffee.


Now that you’re up-to-date on all the fresh pastry action in San Francisco, it’s time to get some for yourself. Let us know what you think in the comments!




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